Eric's Beijing Diary

I don't want to go into a lengthy description of Qindao, so I'll let you read it yourself. Let me just summarize by saying that Qingdao was basically founded as sort of a German "Hong Kong." Not many people outside of China know that today, because the Germans lost it in World War 1, which is a long time ago. But before 1897, there really was nothing here but a little fishing village. The Germans came in and built it up as their primary naval installation in the Far East. So it is that one of the prettiest little Bavarian communities in Germany is not in Germany. The thing that has impressed me more than anything else is the number of buildings left standing from that period. When I say "that period," I am referring to the time before World War I, when Qingdao was lost to the Japanese. But perhaps this is not entirely accurate, because the Germans didn't just all leave when the Japanese took over. So it could be that a certain number of those buildings were built by German people living in Qingdao long after the German government had left officially.

But Qingdao today has grown far beyond the original German outpost. So when you roll into Qingdao, you don't see Germany, you see China. Once you get here, though, you can see the remnants of the old German colony all over the place. And it is seen in more than just architecture. The old world Deutschland sophistication seems to permeate, or at least influence every aspect of Qingdao society. Perhaps part of it is because Germany is viewed very positively in China today. China tends to contrast Germany with Japan it its attitude toward past atrocities. And positive relationship with Germany is seen as advantageous economically. I haven't actually met a lot of Chinese people who study German, although I have met a few, and perhaps more than any other European language except French, which is the default "second foreign language" for English majors.

Actually, I have only been here two days, so perhaps I should not be too quick to analyze what makes Qingdao so unique. I guess I don't know entirely what it is, really. Qingdao is more like America then any city I have been to in China. I don't think I would like to live here; Qingdao is not a very good place for bicycles. Not that you would have to have a car, because taxis are pretty cheap here, and the bus system is great. But if you lived here long enough, I just think you probably would get a car, because the modern city of Qingdao is quite spread out, and the streets are wide, clean, and very drivable. Remember, Qingdao does not have the same dynastic history as other Chinese cities. It's roots are colonial, and that fact is very noticeable when moving about this city.

Yesterday, I went to the museum at the Tsingtao (old spelling) brewery. Most people, even in Germany do not know (or certainly would not want to admit) that the most widely consumed German beer in the world is made in China. The Tsingtao brewery was built by the Germans in 1903, just a few years after the colony was established, so the history of the brewery parallels the history of the community. This cost is a bit expensive, I think (50 RMB), but it is worth it, because the museum is pretty well put together, and the historical section is generally pretty good, although there is no mention of the Cultural Revolution. I mean, you really have to read between the lines to see anything substantial regarding that tumultuous period.

Today, I visited the Protestant Church, which dates back to just after the Tsingtao brewery was built. In its time, it was probably a Lutheran church, but I'm just guessing. There isn't that much about the history of the building when you go there. It is not a museum, it's a church. The people there don't seem to know anything about the history. But they do take very good care the building, which is in amazingly good condition. I mean, everything works. The clock on the steeple tower is in mint condition, and still ticking. When you walk around in this building, or sit in the sanctuary, there's nothing to tell you that it's not 1910. Well, maybe the electric clock on the wall would give it away. But it's not a digital clock, and perhaps pretty old itself. Anyway, it is really worth seeing.

The building that really is a museum is the old governor's mansion. It is absolutely fabulous. The German governor who built it in 1903 was fired when Kaiser Wilhelm found out how much he had spent on the project. Much of the history narration (they give you a little hand held machine for 20 RMB) concerns famous Communists who have stayed in the building, but there is a little about the German part of its history too.

I also went to the old underground German fort on Qingdao Hill. That is really something to see. It is certainly nothing fancy. It is a cold, forbidding basement. But the size of the thing is impressive--perhaps you could see it as a giant bomb shelter. It didn't help the Germans keep the town, though, because they were overwhelmed when the Japanese attacked in August of 1914.

Anyway, that's the summation of a very brief tour. It's been a relaxing couple of days. Tomorrow I go home. Perhaps next time, I will visit the Catholic Church. It's not really from the colonial period, because it was built in the thirties, but it does have an interesting history. Can't recommend it, because I haven't seen it, but, as I said, I probably will some day. As far as the other places, here's my summation:

Qingdao Brewery. I think it's a good starting point, because it has a better history narration than anything else in town. There is a lot more about the Japanese than the Germans, but that's OK, because, after all, they were involved longer, after everything was said and done.

Protestant Church. I guess the only thing I would say here is that it might be nice to come on Sunday. The other thing would be to see if they would let you climb the ladder up to the belfry. You can go up to the steeple, but not the belfry. But it is an impressive building. See it.

Governor's Mansion. Pay the 20 RMB for the little hand-held machine that will give you the narration in English. You will have to supplement that with some study on the Internet or something.

German Underground Fortress. If you're not really a history buff, perhaps you can skip this one. There is nothing of beautiful architecture here. Still, it is only ten kuai, and it is unique enough to be worth seeing. Remember, the battle with the Japanese was the only World War I battle that took place in Asia.

Sidewalk Hotel. Yes. Definitely. Recommend it highly. Just look for the most run-down neighborhood you can find behind the train station on the other side of the tracks.