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Reflections on a Wandering Life.....
Tuesday, August 04, 2009
Road to Linxia
Took the bus from Langmusi to Xiahe yesterday. Took me a little while, but I finally found a cheap room near the Labrang Monastery. Labrang Si is the largest Tibetan monastery outside of Lhasa. It is the main reason people come to this town. I have been through the place before, so I really

I was struck both by the friendliness and loneliness of the monk who invited me to visit with him. The Labrang Monastery is the largest monastery outside of Lhasa. There are lots and lots of monks there. And it isn't as if they don't do things together. In fact, in contrast to the mountain hermits, it appears that they do everything together. But in fact, the don't seem to have real companions. This guy had a roommate, but his roommate was a very, very old man who spent literally every waking moment mumbling and fingering his prayer beads, working his way into Heaven.

Jessica is a local school teacher who conducts a private school during the summer vacation, teaching English and math to local children. The first summer I worked with her, she had many more students than she does now, but she also had other teachers working with her. This summer, she didn't have any other teachers working with her, so she raised the tuition a bit, so that she would have fewer students.

I spent a good bit of time teaching the children a song. The are learning English, and their progress is quite impressive, but it is largely rote, because they recite their lessons together, repeating after the teacher. I spent a lot of time having them recite one by one, in order to enforce independent learning. It really is a unique opportunity that these children have, because, if they follow through with this, they have the potential to become very proficient in English. Most of these kids are pretty young. All of them are certainly below the age of native language acquisition.